2:11pm Saturday 6th June 2009
It was the very meaning of the phrase joie de vivre. Two ice-cold bottles of champagne and a gourmet picnic were ready and waiting on the narrow boat’s outer deck.
The barge crept through the woodland canal while we gorged on pâté de campagne and foie grois. In fact, the only duty for the rest of the day was to make it to a nearby town in time for a massage and water spa treatment.
It sounds like the untouchable lifestyle of the rich and famous – but this idyllic scenario is just a stone’s throw away and just a snippet of what’s on offer in a world famous corner of France.
We were taking a trip down the Marne Canal in the southern reaches of the Champagne-Ardenne – just an hour-and-a- half by train southeast of Paris or a three-hour drive from Calais.
And there is certainly a lot more to the area than the corkpopping and bubbly that its celebrated name suggests.The region, which shares a border with Belgium in the north, is made up of four administrative divisions – Ardennes, Marne, Aube and Haute-Marne.
From serene rolling farmland, forests, lakes and rivers to towns steeped in history and the most luxurious of French cuisine, it’s easy to see why the area is quickly becoming a popular get-away destination.
A good starting point is the medieval town of Troyes on the banks of the river Seine. Its narrow streets are lined with quaint 16th century wood panelled buildings and the tourism draw is set to increase dramatically in the very near future.
The strictly regulated boundaries for champagne production are being increased to include the historical capital of the region.
It is perhaps more than a strange coincidence that the town centre – which dates back to Gallo-Roman times – was constructed in the shape of a champagne cork.
Much of the appeal of the area is the ease with which it is possible to escape from civilisation – just 25 km east of Troyes lies 70,000 hectares of glorious unspoiled wilderness.
The huge Foret D’Orient regional national park is home to three overflow lakes created as part of a flood control system. Each lake has a different purpose. Jet skiers, motorboat drivers and water-skiers have the freedom of Lac Amance while fishermen, sailors and canoeists can enjoy the tranquillity of Lac d’Orient.
Lac du Temple is reserved almost exclusively for wildlife spotting and is a truly spectacular wilderness. It’s the kind of dreamland where you can walk or cycle for hours through secret woodland passes without seeing a soul – except perhaps a family of wild boar or a kingfisher darting across a secluded waterway.
There are activities to suit everyone. From bird watching and wildlife spotting to horse riding and a full range of water sports and leisure activities.
But this giant wilderness is in sharp contrast to the regimented vineyards in the heartland of the region.
And for champagne lovers, there is ample opportunity to head off the beaten track and taste some of the finest varieties on offer.
The family-run Drappier champagne business – an hour’s drive from Troyes in Urville – offers fascinating guided tours of its production and ageing facilities and, of course, an all-important tasting session.
It’s just a short trip from there to the picturesque Marne Canal, where a number of companies offer scenic boat trips. Day-trippers can be seen cycling along the nearby footpath or settling down to a fine bottle of champagne.
If even that sounds like too much effort and you’re really in the mood for relaxation, it’s well worth driving another half-hour down the road to the spa town of Bourbonne-les-Bains.
This health resort has natural hot springs and the thermal water that makes it famous has been used for 2,000 years.
At the centre of the community is the ValVital Thermes de Bourbonne-Les-Bains, where a whole range of spa and massage treatments are available. The town has other attractions, too – those looking for a bit of nightlife can enjoy a dance or a flutter at the nearby casino and night-club complex.
Children are also well catered for in the region. Nigloland, 45km away from Troyes, has an array of rides and attractions to keep children amused for a day.
As the region’s tourism board puts it – Champagne-Ardennes is a place to “let your imagination run away with you”.
And we only scratched the surface of what was on offer in this diverse corner of France.
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