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The restaurant at Norton Park provides an opportunity to indulge in fine food in a startlingly modern environment.

Leeds-based Q-Hotels bought the former conference centre three years ago and has spent £11m turning it into one of the top hotels in Hampshire.

Set in 54 acres of countryside near Sutton Scotney, the hi-tech elegance of the place starts as soon as you turn on to the drive.

Coloured lights set into the surface guide you through parkland to the manor house and the modern complex constructed around it.

There are more lights set into the footpath that leads from the car park to the jazzy pavilion-style reception area that projects into the forecourt.

From there, steps lead up to the restaurant which is called Scene, to playfully suggest its status as a place to be seen. The name was chosen by the hotel's staff in a poll.

At the centre of the room are tall square baskets almost as big as phone boxes and topped by hedge-like green spheres. This landmark basketry gives the room a memorable identity.

There are more tables on balconies that lead off the restaurant, allowing alfresco dining in summer. The restaurant's look is a cosy version of minimalist, with retro-60s furniture and dreamy landscape pictures painted in an intriguing out-of-focus style.

The white crockery is very contemporary and the cutlery is positively zany, with knives like space-age scalpels. The ambience is elegant, relaxed and not at all stuffy.

I started with a smooth autumn vegetable soup which was thick and creamy, while my companion went for an interesting combination of warm goat's cheese and pieces of cold beetroot on a bed of rocket salad.

Other starters included seared Shetland scallops, pea puree with crisp pancetta (£9.50), and oak-smoked salmon, horseradish cream, lemon and granary bread.

We would also liked to have tried roasted black figs with Prosciutto ham (£8.95) or Dorset crab and avocado tian, tomatoes and sweet marjoram dressing (£8.50).

The head chef is up-and-coming Simon Lakey, who arrived at Norton Park in September. Simon, 35, was previously head chef at Dock Gate 4 in Southampton and, before that, at Berties in Jewry Street, Winchester.

He has simplified the menu, to complement the style of the room, with a choice of seven starters and eight mains. The wording is straightforward, as Simon believes diners should not have to fret unduly over their choice. His cooking style is simple, with relatively few ingredients.

I chose one of the simplest - monkfish pan-fried in butter, with a subtle lobster bouillon, nutmeg wilted baby spinach and saffron potatoes (£22.50). It was beautifully cooked, and went down a treat with a side order of green beans (£2.95).

My companion chose something more substantial and failed to finish her open lasagne with asparagus, wild mushrooms, thyme cream and green salad (£16.50). Her verdict: "Rich and filling".

Other mains included oven-roasted chicken Viennoise, lemon stuffing, wild mushroom, potato terrine and puy lentil jus (£15.95) and juniper-sealed venison loin, beetroot jus, herb rosti, Savoy cabbage and bacon (£23.50). Steak and chips is available,too, at £23.50 for an 8oz fillet and £19.50 for an 8oz ribeye.

For dessert, she went for panacotta of rhubarb and custard in tiny tumblers (£6.95), while I had a blissful experience with twice-glazed lemon tart and raspberry compote (£6.95).

Scene, Norton Park, Sutton Scotney, Tel: 01962 763000. Restaurant open Sunday-Thursday 7-9.30pm, Friday and Saturday 7-10pm. www.qhotels.co.uk

2:56pm Thursday 13th December 2007

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