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1:42pm Saturday 2nd January 2010
It was, Mrs M assured me, the best roast lamb she had ever tasted – and believe me, that is high praise indeed. It’s not that she is over-picky; let’s just say her standards are high. Extremely high.
I was relieved. True, we were enjoying brunch in one of THE venues in London and you would expect the fare to be on the good side. After all, the Cook Book Café restaurant at Park Lane’s InterContinental Hotel comes highly recommended. But there’s always that lurking fear that the experience won’t live up to the hype.
I need not have worried. We were enjoying what was turning out to be one of the most sumptuous of Sunday brunch sensations – just the tonic after a weekend’s sales shopping in the capital.
We felt a glass of champers on arrival was essential to settle us into the occasion, and were delighted to discover free-flowing top-ups of our choice of champagne, wine or soft drinks were part of the inclusive brunch experience.
The setting is quite marvellous. Perched on the Park Lane side of the impressive InterContinental itself, “brunchers” can enjoy a grandstand view of all the comings and goings at what is surely one of London’s most exclusive spots. The hotel overlooks the imposing Number 1, London former residence of the Duke of Wellington, and is a stone’s throw from Hyde Park, Knightsbridge and Harrods.
The restaurant is spacious and bright, yet welcoming and intimate. The cooking stations are all central, allowing diners to enjoy watching the chef-artists at work. And guests have the choice of either helping themselves to the buffet or staff will prepare food for them.
But if the setting was superb, the food was magnificent. Nothing short of a banquet was on offer.
Daunting? Not really. Armed with the knowledge that we could take our time – the table was ours for the afternoon – we decided to tackle the feast in much the same way an ant eats an elephant: small bites over a long, leisurely period of time.
And so the courses came and went. I plumped for shrimps and salad, Mrs M tried the signature dish of duck eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and caviar. I devoured the pan fried halibut in an orange sauce, while Mrs M was drawn to the Japanese cold fish selection.
I wolfed down the beef and Yorkshire, Mrs M was sated on the succulent lamb. Quite, quite superb.
Somehow, and it was a struggle, I managed to keep my eyes off the vast array of puds until I had had my fill of meats and savouries.Then the dam broke: hot waffles with apple syrup and brandy butter! Gorgeous.
And so time eased by, to the trickle of cream, the pouring of sauces.
A small selection from the cheeses just because I thought I should, and our brunch wound to an end.
Head chef stopped by our table to see how we were getting on. He explained how he and some fellow chefs from nearby hotels had created their own running club to keep fit. Judging by the creations we had sampled, I could imagine why they felt it necessary.
Sunday Brunch at the InterContinental is not the cheapest of options. But for that truly special occasion, it really can’t be bettered. Believe me.
Sunday Brunch at the InterContinental costs £39 per person. Included in the price is unlimited champagne, wine, Bloody Marys, Bellinis, soft drinks, tea and coffee.
Cook Book Café, Park Lane.
Visit cookbookcafe.co.uk or call 0207 318 8563 for more details
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