Breezes Café, Bistro and Delicatessen at Hill Head (From Hampshire Society)

Breezes Café, Bistro and Delicatessen at Hill Head

3:45pm Monday 2nd November 2009

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Maria Lewis had a dream of running a café, bistro and delicatessen.

And when she moved to the lovely coastal village of Hill Head seven years ago she knew it had all the right ingredients.

But it was Emma’s dress shop opposite the popular Osborne View pub that really caught her eye. Locals simply loved the little café serving tea and cakes at the back. So when the shop came up for sale, Maria knew what she had to do. And now, after months of planning and renovation, it’s hard to believe Breezes hasn’t always been there.

It still has that quaint feel but it has been transformed into a unique little eatery, all duck-egg blue beach hut chic, with stylish but not cluttered seafaring bric-a-brac and walls adorned with coastal themed artwork, which customers can buy.

Split into sections there’s a bistro at the front, a laid-back café in the middle, rustic deli counter selling local produce, more seating at the back leading out to the garden, plus galleried seating upstairs.

During the day, the emphasis is on quality café-style food. How about a lazy brunch after a brisk cliff-top walk or blustery stroll along the beach? Tuck into Eggs Benedict, a traditional bacon sarnie with thick cut toast, a hearty porridge, syrup drizzled waffles, crispy pancakes or fresh fruit. Or after a hard morning sailing on the Solent a hearty lunch might be in order? Choose from chunky soups, homemade bruschetta topped with pesto, cheese and tomato or piping hot jacket potatoes, hearty stews, filling chillis and pastry topped chowders.

And on a Thursday, Friday and Saturday night the café turns into an intimate restaurant with little flickering candles on surfer shack style tables and chilled out acoustic tunes. Starters and mains have been pared down to a choice of five which means the chef, Richard West, can concentrate on the finer details.

Each dish is so fresh and fragrant it’s hard not to get caught up in the moment. Soft crab meat on a crab paste topped with sweet chunks of tomato and torn basil leaves comes with a blob of avocado ice cream, which not only looks really attractive, it provides texture. The moules mariniere is served in a light, slightly creamy sauce with a delicate hint of curried spice. It sounds like it shouldn’t work but, believe me, it does.

Mains include roast fillet of salmon, fresh red mullet, beef borguignon, (which smelled divine) and a vegetarian option of goats’ cheese pancakes, but it’s the specials that really shine. The Irish stew was packed with flavour (a family recipe passed down the generations and a closely guarded secret!) as was the butternut squash risotto, topped with pan-fried chicken, which far exceeded expectations.

Puds include rich chocolate tart served with New Forest ice-cream, plus naughty crepes swirled with a pungent orange sauce. There was also a selection of local cheese to complement the wine from producers at Titchfield and Wickham (all available to buy).

There are some great philosophies at work here. Simple ingredients, pretty presentation, local produce wherever possible and family recipes.

If Maria sticks to this formula I’ve no doubt the locals will keep returning.

Breezes Café, Bistro and Delicatessen, 66-68 Hill Head Road, Hill Head, Fareham, PO14 3JP Tel: 01329 664141

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