The Black Rat is a newcomer to Winchester's buzzing restaurant scene, and it is certainly making its mark. Warwick Payne samples the much talked-about menu The Black Rat in Chesil Street boasts impressive talent in the kitchen and a successful owner in the shape of David Nicholson.

Around 15 years ago, he bought The Black Boy pub in nearby Wharf Hill and transformed it into an award-winning watering hole.

He now hopes to make a similar impact with his restaurant, which itself is housed in a former pub.

Those who have visited The Black Boy will instantly recognise the décor.

The restaurant has sturdy wooden furniture to give a rustic feeling.

Bric-a-brac is also dotted around, just like the pub, which has always been an Aladdin's cave of quirky collectors' items.

On arrival, the venue was pleasantly busy without being cramped.

My dining companion and I then shared some tasty soda bread while reading the menu.

Head chef at The Black Rat is Philip Storey. He was awarded a Michelin star during his tenure at the Old Chesil Rectory.

The key question was whether he could transfer his noted talents up the road'.

Our investigation began with the starters. My fellow taster opted for salad of fresh buffalo mozzarella with peaches and basil. He was highly impressed, and eager to attempt the recipe in his own kitchen.

I took advantage of being with a mate instead of a date, ordering whole tiger prawns with chilli and garlic, which sounded messy. This was confirmed when it arrived with a telltale finger bowl.

The prawns were huge - around the size of langoustines - and their crunchy texture mixed with the vivid chilli and garlic was fantastic.

Sadly, this meant leaving the side portion of saffron aioli (garlic mayonnaise) barely touched, as I was reluctant to dilute the flavours.

Soon after, my finger bowl - now used - returned to the kitchen, and our attentions switched to the main course.

My companion had Gressingham duck with prunes and Savoy cabbage.

There was plenty of meat, and it was not too salty, having been offset by the excellent sauce.

He added that the cabbage had good texture, but lost its own flavour, being overpowered by the duck.

Then again, if a clean plate was any judge, the meal certainly met with his approval.

Having started with seafood, I opted for fish, and had the grilled black bream fillet.

It tasted as if lightly seasoned with black pepper, but otherwise, its subtle flavours and texture did all the talking.

The rest of the dish was a fabulous riot of colour, featuring chorizo sausage, fennel and tomatoes.

The strong flavours were markedly different to the fish, and ensured that the next mouthful was never dull.

It is said that the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the dessert course proved this theory.

He opted for freshly baked honey Madelaines (miniature sponges) with Valrhona chocolate.

It attracted top marks, as the taste and texture was perfect. The presentation was also excellent, which was true of every dish we tried.

Feeling adventurous, I opted for the Plum Tarte Fine with toasted almonds and crème fraîche.

While keen on almonds, I sometimes find plums too sharp. However, given the quality of the food, I trusted the chef and took the plunge.

I was not disappointed, as the crème fraîche took the edge off the fruit, making it easy to tackle. The pastry and the almonds, as expected, were also tasty.

Following the meal, we agreed that the quality we expected to find was in plentiful supply.

The restaurant staff were also friendly and attentive, helping diners to feel comfortable and relaxed.

l The three-course meal for two, including two bottles of Old Speckled Hen ale each, came to £72.45.

12:14pm Monday 22nd October 2007

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